Eyes Right!

Posted At : April 10, 2008 4:05 PM | Posted By : Leonilla Beck
Related Categories: Make Up

There's no denying that the key look for Spring 2008 is a difficult one to carry off in style. If you want someone to blame, look no further than the Goth revival, and the stunning eye make up in the Mark Ronson 'Valerie' video.

This dramatic winged eyeliner look has been the inspiration for catwalk aficionados everywhere, and rumour has it that the drama queen look is likely to carry on right into the summer. So, that gives us mere mortals all a few months to get the hang of it!

Catwalk style

The trend has been interpreted in lots of different ways, depending on which catwalk show you're lucky enough to be watching. Ben De Lisi models strutted their stuff in bright red flicked up eyeliner on the top of their lids, and used white liner on the inner rims. Another designer, Gavin Douglas worked the classic black winged eye, updated with a matching, but not touching, flick on the lower rim. Eley Kishimoto also went for heavy eyeliner, but used a straight line instead of going with a cheeky flick - and in dark teal instead of black.

"This style of make up is all about being noticed," says Paola Recabarren, make up artist who has worked with Keira Knightley, Jessica Alba and Sienna Miller.

"The key to her eyeliner style is the dramatic flick on the outer eye corners. Liquid eye liner can be difficult to master so one way to achieve the line you want is to feel for the ocular bone on the side of your eye. Lay a pencil on the side of your nose and that is the direction you want the flick to go.

"Cradle your arm against your body before you begin to steady yourself and make sure you use a liner with great staying power; there nothing worse than thickly smudged liner that has found its way on to other parts of your face during the course of the day or evening."

Get the look

The first thing you need to do if you want your eyes to be noticed, is make sure that you have a great base to add the make up to. The first trick you can use is Guinot Mini Lift Eclat Beaute, a serum designed to be added before you put on any make up. Cleanse and tone your face as normal, then add the serum immediately before you apply make up, for an instant lift.

Once you've lifted and perfected, go the extra mile with Jane Iredale's Active Light. It's a nifty under-eye concealer that will brighten up your complexion. Active Light doesn't contain any talc, so it leaves the delicate under eye area looking beautifully smooth, with an almost airbrushed look. The mineral particles add a lovely soft focus effect, and any dark circles are hidden. You can also try Jane Iredale Circle/Delete which is great for dark circles and nourishes while concealing. Circle/Delete contains vitamin K which feeds the tiny blood vessels in the skin under your eye, and fade pigmentation.

Jane Iredale is a mineral based make up range, so even if you pile on the heavy eyeliner and shadow to look like you've just walked out of a catwalk show, it won't harm your skin. The colours in mineral make up are pure, so that the colour you see in the pot is the colour you see on your face...and the complete absence of man made pigments means that even sensitive skin won't be irritated...so there's no reason not to experiment!

Dark and shade

When you have the perfect canvas, you can start adding colour. Apply a neutral base such as Jane Iredale Lid Primer, to the lid. Grip the eyeliner firmly and go for a thick line in one sweep along the rim then upwards and outwards towards the outer corner. Dark black is the classic colour for this look but dedicated fashionistas are starting to favour midnight blues and charcoal grey colours. Jane Iredale Liquid Eye Liner comes in three shades - Black, Black/Brown and Gold.

Another hot look for this season is teaming full heavy brows with this kind of eye make up style. You can create the illusion of beautifully thick, defined brows; by using a sweep of mascara over the brow - Jane Iredale's Purelash Lengthening Mascara is fab for drama queen lashes as well, but make sure to wipe off any excess beforehand or things could get extremely messy... You can also use a pencil but this does require more effort and precision.

And there you have this season's eyes!

Did you know?

Amy Winehouse says that her style icon is none other than Dolly Parton? Amy told Style magazine: "I heard she wakes up every day four hours before her husband to put on her face. Four hours! I think that's cool."

Cheeky!

Posted At : April 10, 2008 4:00 PM | Posted By : Leonilla Beck
Related Categories: Make Up

Have you ever wanted to know how the professionals get their subtle glow?

Blusher is supposed to look natural, and recreate a youthful flush. If you get the look spot on, you should look as if you're not actually wearing anything!

Mineral make up is really popular at the moment, due to the fact that it's natural, doesn't clog your pores, and can give you flawless results with real staying power - perfect for blusher and base, which have an annoying tendency to rub off as the day goes on"

For colour-perfect results, try using mineral make up from the Jane Iredale range. You can protect your skin from damaging UVA/UVB rays, get rid of irritating ingredients that can be as bad for the planet as they are your skin, and look fantastic at the same time!

First you need to find a base that suits your skin tone - if you're using a mineral powder, err on the side of 'less is more' and buff powder base into your skin in a light circular motion, beginning at your T-zone. Jane Iredale Amazing Base is perfect as a skin primer - the lack of artificial ingredients means that it's suitable for even the most sensitive skins. Liquid based mineral foundations can be used in the same way as any other liquid foundation. Amazing Base powder and Jane Iredale's Liquid Minerals come in a huge range of shades

Leonilla, beautician and director of Serenity Beauty has a top tip for blusher... "Wait until you've added everything else before you start applying your blusher - then you can see the complete look - and that means you can avoid overdoing the colour!"

When you come to apply the colour, remember to be sparing with your application, and build up your colour slowly -because mineral based colours can be extremely concentrated. The Aunt Sally look was terrible on Wurzel Gummidge in the 1970's yet some women still insist on adding just a little too much - and the results are less than subtle.

Paola Recabarren is makeup artist to many a celebrity, including the luminously pretty Keira Knightley. She says:

"A natural coloured blush is designed to enhance your cheekbone area (the apples) and can be swept up to your temple. Use a deeper shade of blusher or foundation as a shader - roll your finger under your cheekbone to find exactly where it is located and shade on or below to contour (depending on how you want to shape your cheekbones).

"For a radiant glow, sweep blusher onto the apples or balls of your cheeks (the round swelling of cheek that you get when you smile) - think about where you see the colour when you glow from blushing naturally, and sweep it softly upward toward your ear.

"Have a good look in the mirror, and get to know your face, feel your bone structure if your cheekbones are not obvious, so that you can work out the best place to enhance your features."

Jane Iredale's Pure Pressed Blush is a multi-talented makeup that doesn't have to be restricted to the cheeks - you can use the intense colour powders on eyes and lips too. The Jane Iredale range is divided into warm and cool colour palettes so that you can be sure of choosing a colour to suit your complexion perfectly.

If you're more of a cream blush girl, try the creamy In Touch blush stick, which even smells delicious!

Expert tips for applying blusher:

  • Keep application soft - blusher should never be an obvious stripe.
  • Build up colour slowly - start with less and add more if needed.
  • After applying your contour to shape your cheekbone, focus your blusher colour on the apples of the cheek; blend upward and outward - sweeping the blusher up to meet between your temple and the top of your ear.
  • Finish by highlighting the top of your cheekbones with a light shimmer to accent shape. This subtle emphasis will really give you the illusion of higher cheekbones / more shape to your face shape, and the appearance of a sheer healthy glow.

Did you know...

Mischa Barton's makeup artist Nick Barose blends a sheer liquid foundation on top of a cream blush to mimic a natural blush, "as if blood is rushing to your cheeks".